Monday

Fashion and Textiles Subculture Workshop




This workshop has been designed to integrate key techniques: batik, screenprinting, image transfer, applique and stitch. These were introduced within  the context of subcultures and explored through an initial moodboard phase. The techniques detailed below are equally applicable to Textiles and Art and Design subject areas, and can be adapted for Key Stage 4 but are aimed at KS3. 








The following National Curriculum specifications are covered within the below programmes of teaching and learning;


1.1 Creativity 
a Producing imaginative images, artefacts and other outcomes that are both 
original and of value. 

b Exploring and experimenting with ideas, materials, tools and techniques.

1.2  Competence 
a Investigating, analysing, designing, making, reflecting and evaluating 
effectively. 

b Making informed choices about media, techniques and processes. 

1.3 Cultural understanding 
b Understanding the role of the artist, craftsperson and designer in a range 
of cultures, times and contexts. 

1.4 Critical understanding 
a Exploring visual, tactile and other sensory qualities of their own and 
others’ work.

b Engaging with ideas, images and artefacts, and identifying how values 
and meanings are conveyed. 



3 Range and content 
a work in, and across, the areas of fine art, craft and design, including both 
applied and fine art practices 
b exploration of media, processes and techniques in 2D, 3D and new 
technologies 
c study of a range of artefacts from contemporary, historical, personal and 
cultural contexts 
d understanding of art, craft and design processes, associated equipment 
and safe working practices. 

Batik


Batik
The art of decorating cloth in this way, using wax and dye, has been practiced for centuries. In Java, Indonesia, batik is part of an ancient tradition, and some of the finest batik cloth in the world is still made there. The word batik originates from the Javanese tik and means to dot.

Websites to visit for more images:
http://www.globalmamas.org/Info/12-BatikPreparation.aspx


Materials for Batik
Tools
Any tool that can efficiently transfer hot wax from a container to the fabric will serve to produce a design on cloth when it is dyed. At the simplest level, a lighted candle can be used to distribute drops of melted wax on the fabric. A variety of objects such as bent wire or the rim of a tin can, can be dipped in melted wax and pressed onto the cloth to make a design. However the serious artist uses the brush, some cheap paintbrushes for covering large sections (don't waste good ones on this); a tjanting, or several, with which to apply the wax are also used. Each of your tools needs a ridge on it to prevent it from sliding down into the scalding hot melted wax. If they do not already have a ridge of some sort, you can make one by wrapping many layers of tape at just one place on the handle of the tool.

Wax & Wax pot
The selection of waxes is important to the quality of the finished batik. Paraffin and beeswax are the two waxes most commonly used in batik and are usually combined in different proportions.
Any generic batik pots will be suitable.

Dye
Make sure you have all the chemicals and supplies you need for dyeing: Procion MX dyes, urea, sodium carbonate (soda ash), thin rubber or plastic gloves, measuring cups and spoons, squirt bottles to put the dye solution into for application, dust mask for measuring out dyes, and a bucket for pre-soaking the fabric in sodium carbonate solution. Be sure to pre-wash all clothing to remove invisible finishes that can prevent the dye from getting to the fabric. (In place of the Procion MX dye, you can substitute any type of fiber reactive dye that can use temperatures below the softening point of wax, such as Cibacron F/Sabracron F or Drimarene K dye; Dylon Cold Water Dye is an example of the latter, but avoid Dylon Multi Purpose dye, which is a hot water dye.)

Fabric
Because of its ready availability the best fabric for most batiks is cotton. The weave of the cloth should not be too close, and the fabric should be translucent when held in front of a light.

Iron: Any generic iron will be suitable.

Newspaper/newsprint: To remove the wax from the fabric

Hairdryer: To dry the wax and fabric.

Getting Started

Watch a demo on u-tube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3N1866PT5G4



Steps:


1) Draw or trace the design (10-15 mins depending on complexity of design)
The technique of batik is a demanding one. In general, the final design must be conceived before the picture is begun.  The design is created in stages, each of which encompasses the whole picture. You can draw on the design using a pencil or place a template underneath the fabric to trace over.


2) Apply the wax (5- 10 mins)
 Using the tjanting tools and brushes apply the hot wax to the parts of the design that you wish not to dye.

3)Dry the wax (Will vary, but using the hairdryer 5-10mins)
Either using hairdryer (on a cool setting) or naturally allow the fabric to fully dry before applying the desired colour of dye.

4) Dye/ paint the fabric ( Will vary, but approximately 10-15 mins)
Either fully immerse the fabric in the desired colour or brush on the paint using brushes, making sure the dye is fully absorbed through the fibres.

5)Dry the fabric (Will vary, but using the hairdryer 5-10mins)
Either using hairdryer or naturally allow the fabric to fully dry before attempting to remove the wax

6) Remove the wax (5- 10 mins, depending on how much wax has been used)
When the fabric, now almost wholly waxed, has dried it is placed between sheets of absorbent paper and a hot iron applied. As the sheets of paper absorb the wax they are replaced by fresh sheets until the wax is removed. At this point the final design is seen clearly for the first time.

7) Repeat the whole process?
For traditional, multiple-step batik, air-dry, and repeat the waxing and dyeing steps as desired, starting with the lightest colors and progressing toward the darker ones, first spending some time to plot the appropriate order for the colors and how each color will mix with the previous ones. 

Health and safety

1)Beware of dangerous overheating of the wax pot; wax can burn, causing a dangerous house fire, or just smoke that can cause lung damage to prevent this turn the wax pot off once you have completed using it at the end.


2) Whilst applying the wax, be wary of spilling wax on your hands.
3)Limit the use of the wax pot to three people at any time to prevent any accidents, due to overcrowding.

4)Whilst using the iron, again be wary of burning yourself on the hot melted wax.


Applique and Stitch


Stitching techniques can be introduced in combination with other textile processes mentioned to encourage a collage approach.


The below pages show a step by step visual reference for various useful hand-stitches and can be used on fabric, paper, photographs, etc.


To run a similar style workshop or lesson introducing applique and hand-stitches, you will need;


needles (various sizes, and matching to the threads)
threads (simple sewing thread to thicker embroidery)
optional thimbles, tracing paper.
Image Transfer Process:


Materials: 
Plastic Glue sticks
Acrylic Matt
Newspaper
Calico/ mix of materials of choice
Photocopies of mood board
scissors
sponges
sink / bucket of water


How to do transfer the image:


Get students to cut out chosen images from the photocopy of the mood board.


Coat the image, face side up, in Acrylic Matt with a plastic glue stick. You need to apply enough Acrylic Matt to the image so that the image can only just still be seen.


Put face down onto the calico and smooth it out with your hands.


Leave to dry for 2 hours.


Repeat this process for as many times as required. Magazine and colour print outs can also be used as an alternative to photocopies.


Leave a lesson available for this process.


How to reveal the image:


Once the print is dry, take a damp sponge and gently begin to rub the top surface of the paper away in a circular motion. The surface paper will start to come away and your images will be revealed.


Once this process has been completed, the image is ready to be used.


Depending on the class size and classroom logistics, this activity should take 20 - 30 mins.







Screen Printing Workshop

Screen printing workshop

Tools and Materials



You will need:

Screens cleaned and dry

Squeegee that fits the screen, Parcel tape , palette knife
Fabric screen printing pigment and medium
Newspaper (for covering the table or stencil)
Newsprint for stencil
Fabric selection to print onto
Scissors, masking tape
Printing Medium and pigment


preparation
Cover printing table area with newspaper ( tape it down)
Mix printing pigment with medium 50/50 (Acrylic Screen printing ink)
Tape around inside of screen with parcel tape to seal the frame (this stops the ink drying in the gaps)
cut out you stencil design in newsprint or magazine (we used figures from magazines to cut out)

Printing
Tape fabric down with masking tape on table

Place paper stencil on top
Place screen on top of both positioning it to line up with your stencil.
Use palette knife to spread a thick line of ink along the top edge of the screen about 4cm deep



Another person must hold the screen down firmly

Place squeegee behind the row of ink
Holding with both hands, press down
Draw the squeegee and ink towards you using firm even pressure and a smooth speed.
This can be repeated back in the other direction to take the ink back to the top of the screen
( this make a thicker layer of ink on your print)
Lift off the screen, your print needs to be hung up to dry (string and clothes pegs are useful)
Repeat with other stencils
Remember to clean the screen thoroughly so that the ink does not dry in the mesh and block it for next time.